； clad in the sweet simplicity of a little strip of skin tied round the middle。 Even here； however； the female love of ornament was in evidence； for the hair of the women was elaborately arranged and powdered with some metal that caused it to glitter and gave it a blue tinge。 Our hut was very superior to that built by the Zulus。 It stood in a reed…hedged courtyard which was floored with limestone concrete。 Also it had a verandah round it。 The interior walls were painted with red ochre in lines and spirals something after the old Greek fashion。 Indeed； these Basutos gave me the idea that they were sprung from some race with a considerable knowledge of civilisation and its arts。 In other ways； however； they had quite relapsed into barbarism。 Thus； as we entered the town about a hundred women returned from labouring in the fields； stripped themselves stark naked before us； and proceeded to wash in a stream — though I observe that they did this “in a modest kind of way。” I should add that at this time very few white men had ever passed the gates of Secocoeni’s Town。
It was an uncanny kind of place。 If you got up at night； if you moved anywhere； you became aware that dozens or hundreds of eyes were watching you。 Privacy was impossible。 You ate； too； in public。 The chief sent down a sheep。 You saw it living； next you saw it more or less cooked and held before you in quarters on sticks by kneeling natives。 You cut off chunks with your knife； ate what you liked or； rather； what you must； and threw the rest to other natives who stood round staring； among them the heir…apparent to the chieftainship。 These caught the pieces as a dog does； and gobbled them down like a dog。
On the morning following our arrival； after a night so hot that sleep was almost impossible — for at that season the place； surrounded as it was by hills； was like a stewpan — we rose and； quite unwashed； since water was unobtainable； ate more chunks of half…cooked sheep； which we flavoured with quinine。 Then after bating demands for brandy； whereof the fame had spread even to this remote place； we surrendered ourselves into the charge of the astute…faced Makurupiji； the fat Swasi； and of the general of the forces； an obese person called Galock； with a countenance resembling that of a pig。 These eminent officers conducted us for nearly a mile； through a heat so burning that we grew quite exhausted； to the place of the indaba； or talk。 Here； under a rough shed open on all sides； sat about a hundred of the headmen who had e “to witness。” Beyond this was the chief’s private enclosure； where he was seated on the hide of a bull under a shady tree； clothed in a tiger…skin kaross and a cotton blanket； and wearing on his head a huge old felt hat。 He rose and shook hands with us through the gateway。 He was a man of middle age with twinkling black eyes and a flat nose； very repulsive to look on。 After this he retired to his bull…hide； where he sat chewing handfuls of some intoxicating green leaf； and took no further active part in the proceedings。 All the conversation was carried on through Makurupiji； his “Tongue；” who personated him； using the pronoun “I；” and talking of “my father； Sequati；” and so forth。
It was very curious to see one man pretending thus to be another； while that other sat within a few yards of him apparently unconcerned。 Another strange sight was to watch the arrival of the various notables。 As each headman appeared he paused in front of the gateway beyond which sat Secocoeni chewing his leaves； clapped his hands softly together and uttered a word of unknown meaning which sounded like “Marema。” Then he took his seat with the others。
In the midst of this throng we squatted for four long hours。 I remember that I was perched upon a log in the blaze of the sun； taking notes to the best of my ability — those which are before me now — as the interpreters rendered the conversation from Sesutu into Dutch and English。 It was a very trying experience； since I had to keep my every faculty on the strain lest I should miss something of importance in this medley of tongues。 On paring the report we finally sent in signed by Osborn； Clarke； and myself （C…1776； Enclosure 6 in No。 111） — which report I remember I wrote — with my original pencil notes； I observe； however； that not much escaped me。
Into the details of that document I will not enter here； as it is a matter of history； further than to say that the alleged treaty under which Secocoeni was supposed to have bound himself to bee a subject of the Transvaal proved to be a fraud。 When this had been satisfactorily demonstrated beyond the possibility of denial； the officer whom I have named Mr。 A。； who had negotiated the said treaty； rose in a rage； real or simulated； and withdrew； taking with him the Dutch missioners； Messrs。 Holtzhausen and Van Gorkom。 After this we entered the private enclosure and had an interview with Secocoeni himself。 At first the chief desired that Makurupiji should continue to speak for him； but to this we refused to agree。
I need not repeat the substance of the interview； since it is published as an enclosure to the despatch which I have quoted above。 A re…reading of it； however； makes me wonder whether Secocoeni himself was actually privy to the plot to murder us； or whether it was entirely Makurupiji’s work。 If he was； he must have been a really remarkable old scoundrel。 I am bound to add； however； that； as his subsequent history shows； he was in fact a quite unprincipled person whom no promises or considerations of honour could bind。 So it is very possible that he did know all about the plot。
At length we bade farewell to the chief； whom we left still chewing leaves like Nebuchadnezzar； and that was the last I ever saw of him。 On arriving at our hut we found that the mission had departed； leaving us without any guide。 We went back to Secocoeni asking for guides； and then began a series of mysterious delays。 We were told that all the men were out at work； although scores stood about us； that they did not know the road； and so forth。 At last Osborn addressed old Swasi and others in a way they could not misunderstand； with the result that two lads were produced。
These lads were named Sekouili and Nojoiani； or some such words； appellations which we corrupted into “Scowl” and “No…joke。” Under their guidance we started。 I may add here that when we had crossed the mountains； for some reason which we could not at the time understand； these Basuto boys expressed themselves as afraid to return to Secocoeni’s country； saying that if they did so they would be killed。 One or both of them remained in my service for a long time afterwards； as they implored to be taken on with us。
By the time we had reached the crest of the first range the sun had set and the moon was up。 Here the path forked； one division of it； that by which we had e； running on over the mountains； the other following the line of a deep valley at a lower level。 A discussion arose between us as to which we should take； my elders were in favour of the upper； preferring those ills we knew of； which the two boys； Scowl and No…joke； begged and prayed us not to leave； almost with passion。 I have little doubt that this was because the ambush into which they were directed to lead us was set upon that upper path。 I； however； pleaded for the lower path； just because the fancy had taken me that thence the view of the moonlit valley would be very grand； and stuck to my point。 At length one of my panions； I think it was Osborn； said with a laugh； “Oh！ let the young donkey have his way。 Who knows； perhaps he is right！” or words to that effect。
Evidently my anticipations as to the view from this lower path were not disappointed； for in my notes written up on the next day I find the following：
“It was sombre； weird； grand。 Every valley became a mysterious deep； and every hill and stone and tree shone with that cold； pale lustre that the moon alone can throw。 Silence reigned； the silence of the dead。”
Had we gone by the upper path I believe it would soon have been the silence of the dead for us。 But if so my fancies； or some merciful influence that caused and directed them； proved our salvation。
After we had ridden a long way through the silence that I have described and were getting out of the mountains into the valley； we became aware of a great motion going on amongst the rocks a mile or so to our left； where ran the road we should have followed。 War…horns were blown； and a Basuto warrior armed with gun and spear rushed down to look at us； then vanished。 Probably a match struck to light a pipe had shown him our whereabouts； or he may have heard our voices。 So we crossed the mountains in safety。 And now I will take up Deventer’s story。
He said that it was the accident of our choosing the lower path that in fact saved our lives； as on the upper one the murderers were waiting。 When we emerged from it the Boer mission and Mr。 A。 had； he added； crossed the great valley and reached the further range of hills； where they were met by some troopers from the fort。 Here； by the blowing of the horns that we had heard； or otherwise — for these natives have very strange and effective means of munication — knowledge came to Mr。 A。 that in some unexpected fashion we had escaped the ambush and were riding towards him across the valley。 Thereon； said Deventer； he lost all control of himself and called for volunteers to shoot us down in the second nek。 Then； according to him； Holtzhausen — who； by the way； was one of the best fellows I ever knew； a very honest and straightforward man； and who； like Mr。 Van Gorkom； had no suspicion of any of these things — intervened with great effect； shouting out that if this wicked deed were done he “would publish it in every Court of Europe。”
After this declaration no volunteers came forward： indeed they might have refused to do so in any case； with the result that about dawn on the following day we arrived utterly worn out at Fort Weber — I remember that several times I fell asleep on my horse — where we were received quite affectionately by Mr。 A。
When Deventer revealed all this appalling story some months later； he asked and received a promise that no public use should be made of the information； since when it came to his knowledge he was in the service of the Boer Government； and therefore did not consider himself justified in disclosing secrets to the prejudice of another servant of that Government。 This wish of his was strictly respected； but； as may be imagined； the English authorities after the Annexation； although they could make no use of their knowledge； were not willing to accede to Mr。 A。‘s applications for employment under the new regime。 A while later he came to the house at Pretoria in which I was then living with Osborn； who was the Secretary to the Government； which house； I think； was called “The Oaks。” Mr。 Osborn received him； and I； who was writing in an adjoining room separated from them only by some very thin partition； heard words running high between them。 He （A。） was blustering and demanding to be employed as a right。 In the end he asked why he should be left out when so many other Boer officials had received appointments。 Thereon Osborn answered with great rigour； “Damn